Tine Travels And Sews: Annäherung 2016

It's become a tradition. Every January on the third weekend of the month, it's AnNÄHerung - THE sewing weekend for sewing enthusiasts and sewing bloggers in Bielefeld. As tradition dictates, it's also a necessary component of the weekend for me to miss the welcome dinner and arrive late to the introduction.

In the introduction on Friday evening everyone tells a bit about herself and the plans for the weekend. From skirts, to trenchcoats, childrens clothing and coat projects, everyone has their own goal for two days of sewing that is only interrupted by the occasioal lunch and dinner break.

For the first time I brought two projects, as I thought that both would be quick. If I hadn't done some things wrong on the first try, they would have both been finished, but since I hadn't marked some things on my fabric and got confused when inserting the zipper on my utility jacket, it took longer than expected.

So what did I want to sew? I had cut and prepared a utility jacket in black water repellent twill, that I made from a pattern in Burda 07/2000. It's the issue that started my passion for sewing and the issue that I made the most garments of yet. I still have some patterns from the issue, that I'd like to make - maybe even my wedding dress will be from the issue.

I also brought the Rosari skirt pattern pieces, which I blogged about at the end of last year. I found some suede imitate at a closeby fabric store and had a clear image of the finished skirt in my mind.

On Friday night I started the jacket, stopped sewing at around midnight because I was a bit tired and on Saturday afternoon I finished it. With some minor problems though, but the great thing about sewing in a group that everytime you sigh someone asks what's wrong and offers you help. Thank you Heidy! I hadn't marked the proper position of the zipper on the jacket front pieces, so I sewed the zipper in at the wrong place first, but then, we found the mistake and I could correct it after some seam ripping.

Basting by hand - that's what I do, when sewing people are around

I also had to adjust the front when I was at home, because the neckline on the left side was higher than on the right side. I don't like seam ripping and usually I tell myself no one will notice the mistakes, but for this project I was really motivated to make it as perfect as possible.

The finished utility jacket has four pockets in the front and elastic casings on the neckline, waist and hem. It has raglan sleeves.

This is one corner of our sewing room. We also had various ironing boards, but only one mirror, so that's where the chatting took place. I've been to Bielefeld since the sewing weekend started, so it's been my third time and this year I promsed myself to spend more time chatting and not rush through my project. So I tried to chat with the others and get the occasionaly snack after every third seam, which almost worked out.

I love the atmosphere that the working sewing machines create and the chatter of happy sewing people. It's amazing how this little hobby brings together people and also how much impact the blogosphere has and how it brings together women from all over Germany. Every year I'm so inspired after the weekend that I can't wait to get back to Bielefeld in the next year. Already thinking about ideas for next years project gets my head spinning.
One weekend is not enough so I plan to have some "private" sewing weekends with friends this year too.

I have to thank the ladys who had the original idea for the weekend and organising the event three years in a row so much. You're great and I hope that we can continue our annual meet up for years to come! Their blogs are in German, but if you want to see what they are up to, check out Mamamachtsachen, Drehumdiebolzeningenieur and Alle Wünsche werden wahr. Google Translate can help!

PS: The Rosari skirt deserves an own post and of course I will also blog about the utility jacket. Both should be wardrobe staples in the spring.

Tine Sews: The Grey Coat

Last weekend I recovered from a night out with colleagues that lasted until 4 am and when I was done with running errants, I started sewing in the afternoon. I had already cut the pieces for the grey coat from my beloved Wool Mix Ede fabric and only had to sew the parts together. 

Then on Sunday I met with a friend to have brunch in the Hafencity in Hamburg and after that we strolled along the Speicherstadt in the most beautiful weather. That's where we took the picture above.

The grey coat is from a pattern mash-up, that I did myself. I used the bodice an sleeves of Burda 128 9/2002 and combined it with the collar and front of Burda 127 9/2002. I figured that, since the patterns are from the same issue, there shouldn't be a problem with matching the parts and apart from the fact that the front pieces where 5 cm longer than the bodice of 128 I could easily combine the two. I drafted a lining from the pattern pieces, but eliminated some seams.

The jacket fron has to diagonal seams that feature pockets. It's a bit weird, that they are lower in the fron than in the side, because it's a bit strange to put your hands in. But it works. And they are the perfect size to store a tablet or keys.

I love the biker jacket feel of the jacket and think that the cream zipper is a nice touch. I could've used a shorter zipper, since I always have to leave the zip a tad bit open to get a smooth collar, but I will think about that, when I use the pattern a second time. I'm dreaming of a red or pink version now.

They feature a diagonal seam in the front, which include a pocket. The pocket is the perfect size to store a tablet or keys. It's a bit strange that they are higher on the side than on the front and first I thought, that it would be strange to put my hands in, but it works.

As on my trenchcoat I have the same issue with a weird pulling on the back. I really need to find the cause of that to be able to change future projects accordingly.

I had the problem that the collar was slightly longer than the back, so I just made a pleat there. It looked weird, when it was open, so I did some handstitching to tack the pleat down. I have to remember cutting the back pieces less wide next time.

The collar is quite wide and topstitched along the edges.The front is fused with fusible interfacing to give it a little more body. There is topstitching along the zipper as well.

The length is just right, only the sleeves could be about three centimentres longer. But I cut the lining on the sleeves a tid bit short when I bagged the lining and so I have to live with it. It's okay, but could be better.

Detail shot of the back, with the top stitching along the pleat.

I thought about adding a coat hanger this time. So much more practical than without.

I hope you like the coat as much as I do! I've worn it almost every day since I finished it and it's perfect it the current chilly weather.

On Trend: The Blouson

It seems that nearly every blog post starts with "These fabrics have been lying in my stash forever...", but at the moment I'm trying to sew from what I've got and only buy the matching fabrics that I need to finish a project. So, this is my new blouson. The idea to use this fabric came into my mind when I looked through my stash and found these two remnants from the same print only in two different colourways. I like mixing patterns and this seemed to be a perfect match.

By browsing some shops and Pinterest I found many cute blousons and also the versions of Clare, Erin and Sophie made me want a cute bomber myself. Because I couldn't wait for the Rigel to be shipped to Germany, I browsed through some Burda magazines and found a similar pattern in issue 3/2014 and 2/2013 ( shows that, even though styling and some patterns are just off sometimes, Burda still produces pieces that are on trend, right before the trend hits the streets).

Here is some of the inspiration that I collected:

 Because the Burda pattern of the issue 03/2014 didn't have the v-neck like the blouson of Papercut Patterns, I merged it with the collar of the blouson in issue 02/ 2013. So the pattern is a mix of model 124 and 125. It's still a bit different but only in the way the sleeves are attached and it's hardly noticeable. But I'm going to redraft the shoulder part, when I make a second version of the jacket. And I will definitely do that! Now I've got the spotty version, but I'm also dreaming about having a simple black one, maybe with contrasting sleeves or a floral one...

 

So, this is it. Blue dots in the front.

And yellow dots in the back. And yes, I totally wear matching socks, also with dots.
Here is, how I wore it with my parka, because though it's warm in Germany right now, it's still too cold for the blouson only.

I'm wearing me-made jeans with my me-made blouson. They are made with my basic trouser pattern, that I only sewed a little smaller by omitting the seam allowances. Now the fit is nearly perfect. On my next pair I'm going to take in the side seam about one more centimetre and then the fit will be spot on.
All other items are thrifted from various flea markets, thrift shops and second hand stores.

How do you like my version of a dotted blouson? Any tips, how the sleeves of the Papercut Rigel are actually drafted?